[ Hikers
] [ Great Smokies Beauty Spots
] About the Author ]
Destinations
of many popular hikes are some of the numerous waterfalls
and cascades of the Great
Smoky Mountains National Park, especially those
on the Tennessee side of the park. Four of the most
heavily visited, and most beautiful of these scenic
displays of water are Rainbow Falls, on the north
slope of Mount
LeConte; Laurel Falls, on the trail between Fightin
Creek Gap and Cove Mountain; Abrams Falls, most easily
reached from the west end of Cades
Cove; and Ramsey Cascades, in the Greenbrier wilderness
area.
Rainbow Falls, approximately four miles
from Cherokee Orchard and halfway to the top of LeConte, is
normally just a slender ribbon of water making a plunge of about
70 feet. But after a hard rain or a prolonged general rain,
it becomes a spectacular display of turbulent water. Its most
unique appearance, however, is in the winter when the temperature
has been below freezing for several consecutive days. On January
28, 1940 Guy Frizzell, Dutch Roth, and I left Knoxville in zero
weather for a special hike to Rainbow Falls. In Gatlinburg,
Chief Park Naturalist Arthur Stupka joined us. The thermometer
had been well below freezing for a week or more and we expected
and hoped to find two huge ice cones at the Fallsone built
up from the bottom and the other an inverted cone hanging from
the top. We even hoped that the two cones might have met, or
nearly so, thus forming an icy "hour glass."
When we parked the car at Cherokee Orchard
we found a few inches of snow covering the ground. We had dressed
warmly because of the severe cold at Knoxville. As soon as we
entered the forest we were trudging through six inches of snow,
except for Stupka who was wearing snowshoes. There wasnt
a cloud in the sky, and no wind. With the reflected heat from
the snow we began to peel off the extra coats and sweaters and
were quite comfortable hiking along in our shirtsleeves.
Upon reaching our destination we found that
the lower cone had built up to a height of about 30 or 35 feet.
The top one, however, was much shorter. We could see that the
suspended icicles were more slender and not so long. Remnants
of other upper cones were seen around the base of the lower.
The direct and reflected heat at the top of the upper cones
had caused them to break loose and fall; otherwise the two certainly
would have met. Even though there was some ten feet between
them, it was a thrilling and unusual sight.
Both of the cones were hollow, with the
main body of the stream still flowing through the center. The
icicles were formed around the main stream as splashing water
froze to the rocks. After a day or so there was a ring of ice
all around the stream of water. Then, as small portions of the
stream continued to hit the edge of the ice ring the icicle
grew into a huge hollow ice cone.
A hike to Rainbow Falls is strongly recommended
after a week or more of below-freezing weather.
Without any doubt the waterfall that is
most frequently visited by hikers is Laurel Falls which is one
and three-tenths miles from the parking area at Fightin
Creek Gap, on Highway #73. Part of the popularity of this hike
is the short distance, but there are other reasons. It is really
two falls, one of which drops down to the edge of the Cove Mountain
trail, while the other plunges off below the trail. Pictures
usually show only the upper fall because it can be made as a
close-up, whereas the photographer has to get so far away in
order to get both falls in the picture, that it is much less
interesting. Another reason so many visitors like this hike
is because of the fine views that are provided along the way,
especially the views of Blanket Mountain and Miry Ridge.
Many women, having heard about the beauty
and interest of Laurel Falls, and realizing it is a relatively
short walk, made the trip wearing high-heel shoes. This unwise
practice led the Park Service to blacktop this trail. Even with
the smooth surface it is not safe to hike that fartwo
and six-tenths miles round tripin high heels. It is likely
that many women have made that discovery the hard way.
Abrams
Falls, two and a half miles from Cades Cove, is
not as high as the other popular falls, but the much
larger volume of water makes up for the lack of height.
This large stream has carved out a very deep pool
and has thus created an exceptionally good "swimming
hole," one of the very best in the entire park.
It is, in fact, so deep that very few swimmers are
able to touch bottom even when diving from the top
of the falls. Herman Silva Forestknown best
to hiking companions as "Foozy," is the
only person I have seen reach the bottom of the pool,
and he had made several unsuccessful dives before
he was able to do it.
The level "benches" of solid rock
near the base of the waterfall are favorite picnic sites and
are also good places for swimmers and divers to sun themselves
while resting.
Large quantities of trailing arbutus (Epigea
repens) may be seen along this trail in March and early April.
I do not know any other spot or trailside in the whole park
that offers so much of this delicately beautiful and early-blooming
wildflower. This trail is also lined with fine stands of mountain
laurel (Kalmia latifolia). The peak blooming season, a bit earlier
here than in higher elevations, is in May and June, with occasional
flowers as early as April.
Although Ramsey
Cascades has not been as heavily visited as the
others have, it is my pick of the well-known waterfalls
and cascades of the entire park insofar as sheer beauty
and charm is concerned. As the name implies, it is
not an actual waterfall, but an extremely steep series
of dashing, splashing cascades. I have seen 2,000-foot
ribbons of water in the Canadian Rockies, but to me
Ramsey Cascades is the most beautiful and picturesque
natural display of water it has been my good fortune
to see. In fact, I know of no other spot in the Smokies
that is quite as beautiful as the one I behold as
I stand on or near the footlog just below the cascades.
It is beautiful throughout the year. I have seen it
when that rocky cliff was a sheer sheet of solid ice,
with the stream falling behind the ice.
There is an element of considerable danger,
however, for hikers who get too close to the brow of any waterfall,
and doubly so at the top of Ramsey Cascades. The solid rock
over which the water flows just before starting the downward
plunge slopes gently toward the edge of the cliff. Although
splashing water keeps the rocks from moist to wet much of the
time, the beauty of the view from the top of Ramsey Cascades
lures many visitors dangerously close to the edge.
On July 28, 1962, Betty H. Barber, the 15-year-old
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. David W. Barber and granddaughter of
Mr. and Mrs. D. West Barber, lost her life in a fall from the
top of these cascades. Several years earlier a young man, James
E. Wolfkiel, Jr., also fell from the same ledge, but was more
fortunate; he didnt even have any broken bones.
Hikers visiting any of the Great Smokies
waterfalls should remember that the top of any waterfall or
steep cascade is an extremely dangerous place. Also, they should
know that the view from several feet back is almost as goodmaybe
just as goodas from the dangerous edge.
Still another waterfallor, rather,
a very steep cascadeis on Mill Creek about two or three
miles south of the southwest corner of Cades Cove. Although
it is much taller than the four famous falls and cascades, it
remains virtually unknown to most hikers. There is no trail,
not even a beaten path, to this distinctive cascade. Dr. Randolph
Shields, head of the Biology Department of Maryville College
and a native of Cades Cove, serves as a seasonal naturalist
during the summer months. On infrequent occasions he takes a
few hardy hikers to see Mill Creek Cascade, but he usually makes
the approach by a different route each time so as not to make
a beaten path.
Many Park visitors never can see Rainbow
Falls, Abrams Falls or Ramsey Cascades, and even Laurel Falls
is too difficult for a few of them. Fortunately, however, there
are some treats available for themwater displays they
may enjoy from their automobile. Motorists driving up through
Little River Gorge (Tennessee Highway #73 from Townsend toward
Elkmont and Gatlinburg) have the privilege of seeing one beautiful
waterfall and a low but interesting cascade. Meigs Falls, on
Meigs Creek just before that stream empties into Little River,
can be seen without getting out of the car. Parking space for
several cars has been provided for the use of those who want
to linger or to make pictures.
The cascade, designated as The Sinks, is
a mile farther up Little River. As at Abrams Falls, the large
volume of water has carved out a deep pool. The swirling water
makes it quite hazardous, and at least one death has occurred
there. Even so, the pool is a popular swimming and diving spot.
The turbulent water at The Sinks and in the stream above the
cascade can not be seen very well from an automobile, but parking
spaces for several cars have been provided. It is recommended
that for the best views, every visitor to this beauty spot should
go the bridge, and to the opposite bluffs just below the cascade.
Since the volume of Little River varies
greatly throughout the year, Mrs. Campbell and I often select
a time when there has been more or less constant rain for two
or three days for a trip to The Sinks. On such a day, when it
was still raining, I told office associates that we were heading
for The Sinks.
"In all this rain?" one of the
men asked.
"Because of the rain," I replied.
It was a most rewarding trip. Seldom had
we seen so much turbulence in the swollen stream. In places
the water came to within a few inches of the road level and,
we learned later, a short section of the road was flooded shortly
after we were there. It was a majestic sight that we saw at
The Sinks. We had on many previous visits seen that cascade
with everything from a very small stream on up to a raging torrentbut
never before quite so much water. The view from the bluffs was
as thrilling as we had expected. The real treat this time was
to stand on the bank, or the bridge, and watch the "back
side" of water hitting a ledge about half way down the
cascade. It then bounded up some six or eight feet before it
completed a big arch and fell back into the stream at the bottom
of the cascade. The front or down-stream side was a mass of
madly whirling and splashing water. That was the most spectacular
phase. But, to us, far more interesting was the glassy smoothness
of the back, or up-stream side, of the arching water. As we
looked into it we could see that the water was heavily charged
with small rocksfrom the size of a mans fist on
down. We could see that it was but a few inches from one of
these rocks to another. Then, realizing that the entire stream
was heavily loaded with such rocks, and seeing the swiftness
of the stream, it was easy to see how those riverbeds had been
carved or dug out through the countless years that such high
water had been at work. As a small boy I had often wondered
how the rounded stones that we knew as river rocks had been
formed. Watching such sights as we witnessed that day it was
easy to see how the rough edges of broken bits of boulders would
be torn off when carried for considerable distances each time
there was such high water.
A friend, having heard about our experience
on that day, remarked to his wife that he had often wondered
why they never saw the interesting things that the Campbells
so often saw. Then it dawned upon him that it may be because
the Campbells go to the mountains more often, and that perhaps
they had learned the best times to witness such interesting
sights.
What, in your opinion, is the most beautiful
spot in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park?
Admittedly, most answers to that question
would list one or more of the vantage points that provide breathtaking
panoramas. Or, perhaps, you might be inclined to prefer a location
where one can see acres of purple rhododendron during the peak
blooming season; or a place from which the extravaganza of autumn
colors may be seen most advantageously.
That, however, is not the type of beauty
spots that I have in mind in connection with the question. The
reference is to any small area, possibly not more than 100 yards
in diameter, where the sheer charm and beauty is the dominant
feature. It is at such locations that many visitors might like
to linger, in quiet meditation, for an hour or so because of
the soul-satisfying experience thus provided.
Through the years I have asked many fellow
hikers to tell me their favorite beauty spots of this nature.
And, of course, I have made mental notes of my own preferences.
With the hope that it might help others to discover the picturesque
qualities of such locations, a few of them are listed herewithnot
necessarily in the order of preference.
Many visitors are advised to see "the
big tree" on the trail between Cades Cove and Gregory Bald.
To me, however, the visitor who hikes only the mile-and-a-half
to that one six-foot tulip poplar gets cheated. The next half-mile
is much more rewarding, in my opinion, and the best of all is
what can be seen while standing on the second foot-bridge above
the big tree and looking back down the trail. There is no single
tree as large as "the big tree," but there are several
almost as largerising from a beautiful undercover of rhododendron.
To me, there are fewif anyspots in the whole park
with more real natural beauty.
A close second in my list of favorites is
the spectacular display of water at Ramsey Cascades and the
immediately surrounding forest. This highly pleasing scene may
be enjoyed either from the footbridge just below the cascade,
or from the ledge at the right.
Another treat, unfortunately missed by most
of those who hike to Ramsey Cascades, is the series of deep
pools and smaller cascades that may be seen about a half-mile
farther upstream. Early hikers knew one of these quiet pools
as Drink-water Pool.
A point that is much easier to reach, and
which is a favorite for many visitors, is the view looking upstream
from the second foot-bridge on the trail to Chimney Tops, the
one that crosses the stream known as Road Prong. Many hikers
stop here just to drink in some of the picturesque beauty.
Thousands of hikers each year enjoy the
views and sunrises from Myrtle Point of Mt. LeConte. Many of
them, however, would find an equally pleasing experience at
a quiet little spot about 100 yards down the ridge to the north.
There the ground is still covered by a lush growth of mountain
myrtle, just as was Myrtle Point in pre-park days. This intimate
little spot has a beauty all its own, but it is made even more
enjoyable by the dramatic quality of the surroundings.
The Spruce-Fir Nature Trail, reached from
the Clingmans Dome road is distinctive for several reasonsespecially
the overall beauty of the Canadian type forest. An added interest
is given by the numerous moss covered logs and small boulders
along the way, and the abundance of ferns.
The Cherokee Orchard-Roaring Fork Motor
Nature Trail has many attractions. One of these is the fine
virgin forest of hemlock trees. Marker Number 5, which corresponds
with a paragraph of the descriptive folder, gives the location.
The larger trees here are centuries old, and interested motorists
should get out and walk through or around these majestic trees.
Marker Number 15, at the last bridge on
the Cherokee Orchard-Roaring Fork Motor Nature Trail, justifies
parking the car and taking a good look at this interesting spot.
Stand on the bridge and look upstream, watching the stream flow
across the jagged rocks and into the quiet and deep pool just
before flowing under the bridge. Then, stand on the other side
of the bridge and watch the swirling water as it dashes wildly
over or between huge boulders that line the streambed. Look
across the stream at the interesting moss covered boulders,
especially the one where a sizeable tree rests on the sharp
top of one of the large boulders. To many, the greater interest
at this stop comes from looking at the sheer cliff, more than
100 feet high, which is at the immediate left of the road. Although
I make this trip a few times each year, I still find it virtually
impossible to pass Station Number 15 without a stop of several
minutes.
Some forty years ago I asked Marshall Wilson
to tell me his favorite beauty spot of the Smokies. When he
told me that it was Porters Flats I asked why he liked that
spot so much. He said that it was because of the number of extra
large trees, and the canopy of tree branches overhead. On my
first visit I was a bit disappointed. I must have expected to
see so many big trees, and growing so close together, that one
almost would have to turn sideways to pass between them. But,
on later visits I learned to appreciate the natural beauty of
Porters Flats that Marshall had described.
"The Cherry Orchard," through
which one passes en route to Ramsey Cascades, has a similar
charm to that of Porters Flats, but has an extra point of interest.
Here, the forest is made up largely of huge specimens of black
cherry trees, many of them more than three feet in diameter.
The first time I heard about "The Cherry Orchard"
I supposed it to be an abandoned fruit orchard, and did not
recognize it on my first trip to the area. Admittedly, a three-foot
tree is not large, even in comparison with the tulip poplars,
hemlocks and other trees of the Smokies. But, it is a very large
size for black cherry trees. Lumber sawed from black cherry
treescut from areas outside the park, of courseis
used in the manufacture of fine furniture. It is one of the
most expensive woods grown in or near the Smokies. The only
other species with a comparable value is the black walnut. Hikers
en route to Ramsey Cascades will see a few larger trees, especially
three very large tulip poplars at the immediate trailside, and
a few large buckeyes and hemlocks. But, for sheer beauty of
the open forest of "sizeable" trees, "The Cherry
Orchard" is worthy of special note.
It would be easy, of course, to expand this
list of beauty spots to more than twice this number.
Carlos C. Campbell was born August 6, 1892
in the Sevier County community of Kodak, within site of Mt.
LeConte.
After his reluctant first hike to Mt. LeConte
in October 1924, Mr. Campbell was hooked. His enthusiasm for
the mountains sparked that day was extinguished only by his
death in 1978, at age 86.
Largely through his efforts as manager of
the Knoxville Chamber of Commerce in the 1920s, the Smokies
became known to the nation. He pressed relentlessly for establishing
these rugged mountains as a national park. Mr. Campbell promoted
the Smokies so much that he eventually lost his Chamber job
due to the pressure of some who felt that he should have spent
more time bringing industry into the area. One of his last promotions
of the park effort before he left the Chamber, was the direction
of fund-raising to bring the entire Tennessee General Assembly
to see the Great Smokies. A result of this effort was the purchase
of the first large tract of land for the park.
He was a charter member of the Great Smoky
Mountains Conservation Association, which was formed in 1923
to promote the establishment of a National Park and now serves
to protect and promote its interest. Mr. Campbell served on
the board of directors continually from 1930 and served as Secretary
from 1941 until his death in 1978.
He was also a founding member of the Smoky
Mountains Hiking Club. The club was a result of the first hike
to Mt. LeConte in 1924. He and other members of this club later
established and marked the route of the Appalachian Trail through
the park.
In the late 1950s he took several
months off work at Provident Mutual Insurance Company to write
Birth of a National Park. First published in 1960, the book
tells the history of the fight to establish the park. It is
now in the fourth printing of the fourth edition.
He was co-author with William F. Hutson
and Dr. A. J. Sharp of the very popular book Great Smoky Mountains
Wildflowers, first published in 1962. The authors elected to
receive no royalties on the book in order to keep the purchase
price as low as possible so that more people might be able to
enjoy it. It was recently re-released in 1997, after having
been expanded and revised for the fifth time.
Mr. Campbell became an avid photographer,
making thousands of Great Smokies pictures, and a great many
of them were published in newspapers and magazines. He was especially
proud of his pictures that the prestigious National Geographic
magazine published. He had a huge collection of color slides
of the Great Smokies and would give slide presentations about
the park to civic clubs, church groups and anyone else who asked,
never charging a penny for this service.
Carlos C. Campbells work for the park
has certainly not gone unnoticed or unrecognized. The American
Scenic Historic Preservation Society presented to him in 1966,
its annual Horace Marden Albright Scenic Preservation Medal
for his outstanding work in conservation. He was the tenth person
to receive the award. Other recipients have been Laurance Rockefeller
(son of John D. Jr.), Ladybird Johnson, wife of the late President
Lyndon B. Johnson, and Stuart Udall, former Secretary of the
Interior. In 1973 Mr. Campbell became the twenty-first honorary
National Park Ranger. This award is the highest given by the
National Park Service to civilians.
Following his death in 1978, the Great Smoky
Mountains Conservation Association established the Carlos C.
Campbell Memorial Research Fellowship at the University of Tennessee
honoring his considerable efforts toward establishing the National
Park.
In October 1981, after a suggestion by the
Great Smoky Mountains Conservation Association, the National
Park Service dedicated the Carlos C. Campbell Overlook in recognition
of his long and diligent service. This overlook is located approximately
two miles south of Sugarlands Visitor Center, and offers a magnificent
view of the valley of the West Prong of Little Pigeon River
and the western slopes of Mt. LeConte to Bullhead and Balsam
Point. Copyright ©1999, Rebecca Campbell
Arrants - Publisher's Graphics, L.L.C, 238 pages
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